My Skincare Routine - The Science and Tea Behind Skincare Products
I got into skincare a couple of years ago, having developed an interest in Korean skincare. One of my friends had a blog where she reviewed and rated Korean skincare products, and that got me hooked. Before I knew it, I was obsessively googling and looking up skincare products on YesStyle and Amazon, not to mention Sephora and Ulta Beauty. I was really interested in the science behind skincare, having double majored in biology and chemistry in college. I’d like to explain the science behind the various steps of skincare routines and share some skincare products I’ve been loving as well.
Cleanser
The very first step to any good skincare routine is washing your face with cleanser. The outermost layer of your skin is the stratum corneum, which is made up of dead skin cells and lipids (fats). The role of the stratum corneum is to keep water in and prevent irritants, bacteria, and pollutants from entering the skin. Cleanser is used to remove dirt, oil, and pollutants from the skin without damaging the skin barrier. Cleanser contains surfactants that bind to oil and dirt and washes them away with water. Use gentle, pH balanced cleanser as to not disrupt the natural skin barrier and strip it away of its natural lipids, which will dry and irritate the skin. Cleansers can also contain hyaluronic acid, which keeps water in the skin, and ceramides, which are lipids that make up 50% of the skin that repair the skin, contain moisture, and prevent water loss.
Some of my favorite cleansers include:
Daily face wash with hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and glycerin to help hydrate skin without stripping moisture. Removes face makeup, dirt, and excess oil, provides 24-hour hydration and leaves a moisturized, non-greasy feel.
Cosrx Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser
Key Ingredients: pH balanced, tea-tree oil, and BHA to soothe and strengthen for luminous and clear skin.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Purifying Foaming Facial Cleanser
Gentle, non-drying cleanser with Thermal Water, Ceramide-3, Niacinamide & Glycerin. Supports skin barrier.
Toner
Toner is often used after cleanser to hydrate the skin and return the skin to its baseline pH. Types of toner include hydrating toners, which are most common, exfoliating toners, soothing/barrier-supporting toner, and astringent toners.
Hydrating toners contain humectants like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or aloe that pull water into the skin and help prep the skin for serums and creams.
Exfoliating toners contain low concentrations of AHAs (glycolic, lactic) or BHAs (salicylic acid). They provide mild, daily exfoliation and are great for brightening, acne control, and improving texture.
Soothing/barrier-supporting toners contain calming agents like niacinamide, chamomile, centella asiatica, and panthenol. They reduce redness, irritation, and strengthen the skin barrier.
Lastly, astringent toners are old school alcohol-based toners made to shrink pores and remove oil. But science shows they can strip the barrier and worsen oil production. Avoid strong alcohol-based toners unless treating very oily skin short-term.
The best toners for dry/sensitive skin are hydrating and soothing (hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol, ceramides). For oily/acne-prone skin, exfoliating (salicylic acid and glycolic acid) toners work best. And for redness, use niacinamide, centella asiatica, and chamomile to calm the skin.
Toner is not a strict requirement for your skincare routine, but it helps to soothe the skin and prep the skin for serums and moisturizers.
Here are some recommended toners:
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner
THAYERS Alcohol-Free, Hydrating Cucumber Witch Hazel Facial Toner with Aloe Vera Formula
Exfoliants
Exfoliants are skincare ingredients or tools that remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. Your skin naturally sheds cells in a process called desquamation, but with age, sun damage, or acne, this process slows so the skin looks dull, rough, or clogged. Exfoliants speed up cell turnover, revealing smoother, brighter skin.
Types of exfoliants include physical/mechanical exfoliants and chemical exfoliants, Physical exfoliants use small particles or tools to manually scrub off dead skin. Scrubs with sugar, salt, rice powder, jojoba beads, and brushes, sponges have the pros of immediate smoothness and they are easy to use. The cons are they can be too harsh and tear the skin.
Chemical exfoliants use AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) which are water soluble and BHA (beta hydroxy acids), which are oil-soluble, to work at the molecular level to loosen bonds between dead cells so they shed more easily. AHAs exfoliate the skin surface and are best for dry, dull, or sun-damaged skin. Examples include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid, which brighten skin, reduce fine lines, and improve texture. BHAs penetrate pores and dissolve oil and dead cells. They are best for oily and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid helps unclog pores and reduce blackheads to fight acne. PHAs include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid to hydrate the skin while exfoliating and are good for sensitive skin.
Exfoliants improve texture by smoothing rough patches, brightens tone by removing dull, dead layers, unclog pores which helps with acne, and stimulate collagen production. You don’t need to exfoliate every day, optimal frequency is 1-3 times a week.
Paula's Choice SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
Aveeno Positively Radiant Skin Brightening Exfoliating Daily Facial Scrub
Serums
Serums are concentrated skincare formulas designed to deliver active ingredients deep into the skin. They are lightweight, fast-absorbing liquids or gels. They treat acne, wrinkles, dark spots, and dehydration. They have smaller molecules and fewer occlusive agents than creams and penetrate more effectively. They contain ingredients such as niacinamide serum, vitamin C serum, or hyaluronic acid serum.
Hydrating serums are hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and panthenol. Humectants draw water into the skin and plump fine lines and boost elasticity. Brightening serums are vitamin C, niacinamide, licorice root, alpha arbutin. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals and regulate melanin production. Anti-aging serums are retinol, peptides, growth factors, and they increase collagen/elastin production, improve cell turnover, reduce wrinkles.
Acne/exfoliating serums are salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, azelaic acid and unclog pores, normalize shedding of skin cells, and reduce inflammation. Barrier repair/soothing serums are ceramides, niacinamide, centella asiatica, madecassoside which strengthen the lipid barrier, reduce irritation, and calm redness.
Apply serum after cleansing/toner before moisturizer. Don’t mix active ingredients. Results usually take 6-12 weeks to show since serums target cellular processes.
Top reviewed serums:
COSRX Snail Mucin Repairing Serum
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Smoothing Serum
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (with Ceramides), Multi-Depth Hydration Serum
Sunscreen
Sunscreen is a topical product that protects your skin from UV radiation, which causes DNA damage (which can lead to skin cancer), breakdown of collagen/elastin (which leads to wrinkles and sagging), pigment changes (which lead to dark spots and uneven tone), and inflammation which causes redness and sunburn.
Sunscreen contain mineral filters, chemical filters, or a hybrid. Mineral filters include ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide which sit on top of the skin and reflect/scatter UV rays. They are good for sensitive skin and are broad-spectrum. They can leave a white cast.
Chemical filters include ingredients like avobenzone, octocrylene, octinoxate, oxybenzone, Tinosorb, and Mexoryl. They absorb UV rays and convert them to heat. They are lightweight and have no white cast. Some can irritate sensitive skin.
Hybrid sunscreens combine both mineral and chemical filters for better coverage and textures.
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) measures the protection against UVB rays. SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB and SPF 50 blocks 98-99%.
Sunscreen prevents collagen breakdown, so fewer wrinkles, and protects melanocytes to reduce hyperpigmentation. They shield DNA to lower risk of melanoma, basal cell carcinoma, and squamous cell carcinoma.
Apply sunscreen 15-20 minutes before sun exposure for chemical filters while mineral filters work immediately. Reapply every 2 hours. UVA rays penetrate clouds and window so apply every day, year-round.
Sunscreen is the #1 proven skincare product to prevent skin cancer, photoaging, and pigmentation. Daily use is important for long-term healthy skin.
Top Sunscreens:
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-In Milk Sunscreen SPF 60
EltaMD UV Clear Face Sunscreen SPF 46, Oil-Free with Zinc Oxide
Moisturizers
A moisturizer is a topical product designed to increase and maintain skin hydration and support the skin barrier. They trap moisture, smooth surface, and repair lipids.
Moisturizers combine three main classes of ingredients — humectants, emollients, and occlusives.
Humectants pull water from the air or deeper skin layers into the top layer (stratum corneum). Examples include hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol, and urea. They are best for plumping and hydrating dry/dehydrated skin.
Emollients are skin softeners that fill in tiny gaps between dead skin cells, making skin feel smoother and more flexible. Examples include squalane, fatty acids, shea butter, and cholesterol. They improve texture and flexibility of rough and dry skin.
Occlusives are moisture lockers that form a protective film on top of skin to prevent water loss. Examples include petrolatum (vaseline) and dimeticone (silicone) and beeswax. They are best for extremely dry, cracked, or damaged skin.
The skin barrier is made of lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids). Moisturizers replace or reinforce these. They prevent flaking, roughness, and tightness. Hydrated skin looks plumper and fine lines are less visible. Occlusive moisturizers reduce irritation from active ingredients like retinoids or acids.
For dry skin, pick moisturizers that are creams with ceramides, shea butter, and petrolatum. For oily skin, use lightweight gels with humectants (hyaluronic acid and glycerin). For sensitive skin, use barrier-repair formulas (niacinamide, ceramides, and colloidal oatmeal). For aging skin, use richer creams with peptides, cholesterol, and hyaluronic acid.
Moisturizers work on a cellular and structural level to reinforce the skin barrier, balance water levels, and protect against environmental stress.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer
Hope this article was informative and inspires you to start your skincare routine — today! Skincare isn’t limited to only women, men should at least apply cleanser, sunscreen, and moisturizer at the bare minimum to protect their skin. Begin today and you will see huge improvements in the quality and look of your skin!
